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Air Tahiti Magazine 62
urfing today is documented consistently by the media but its origins lie lost somewhere under the weight of history and the mysteries anthropologist and surf history specialist of gliding on a wave by means of a board,» and this definition, while simple, is still used a sport practiced throughout polynesia, micronesia and melanesia since ancient surfing became an important sport and later it was brought to hawaii where it this nugget of surf history is solidly supported by the history of the ancient polynesian migration that saw the peopling of the polynesian triangle whose farthest corners are hawaii, easter island, and the first time surfing was observed «20 or 30 natives on long straight boards reached the wave zone they «laid down on their boards and prepared to return to first millennium ad by populations arriving at the same time, surfing was being practiced in the society islands and was described by james morrison, one of the 1788 journal: «for this activity they take a board of variable length and swim out beyond the breakers to wait for big waves to form, sometimes over a mile from shore, and wait with their bellies on the board. they get on to the crest of the wave then move along with the wave at extraordinary speed men and women supports finney s theory but it s difficult practice this sport and they dedicate many most sports, are the best and their women history of ancient polynesians was passed over by europeans much of the destruction of archeological evidence that followed also greatly contributed to the loss of key surfing was observed in the society islands by numerous other european «discoverers» at the end of the 18th century including later in his book polynesian researches, detailed descriptions of surfing from his visit to the islands between 1816 and revue de bord n°62 / air tahiti / on-board magazine n°62 41
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