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 | Mataiva, Eden of the Tuamotus
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Mataiva, to the extreme west of the vast Tuamotu Archipelago, offers visitors a voyage to an untouched and unique paradise. The atoll’s primary forests hold unique endemic fauna and the lagoon is made up of natural, emerald-hued basins, the likes of which aren’t found anywhere else in French Polynesia.
A little off the beaten track, Mataiva is more than a destination, it’s an adventure to uncommon beauty and an authentic Polynesian welcome.
Mataiva at a glance
The Tepoetiriura legend of Mataiva
Phosphate,
Mataiva’s gold
Mataiva’s primary forests,
a perfect habitat for rare birds
Unique birds
© I. Bertaux - Tahiti Communication except center : H. Barnaud
Mataiva at a glance
Even though there is no archaeological evidence to prove it, Polynesians probably first arrived on Mataiva between 500 and 1000 AD, during the period when they were colonizing the other archipelagos of French Polynesia.
The atoll was first seen by a European explorer when the Spanish captain Quiros passed by in 1606. Over 200 years later in 1820, the second European to sight the atoll, Von Bellinghaussen passed by on a Russian oceanic research mission.
The atoll became well known in the second half of the 20th century for its intensive coconut production. Up until this time there were no permanent residents on the atoll, although it was requented by visitors from neighboring Tikehau and Rangiroa who came to fish and harvest copra (coconut meat).
Today Mataiva has a population of 200 people who live mostly from the cultivation of 2000 hectares (about 4,950 acres) of arable land, the most productive soil in the Tuamotus. But Mataiva doesn’t only have a reputation for its copra, fruit and vegetables, the atoll also has a remarkable natural history. The lagoon is the only «chambered» lagoon in French Polynesia. Formed by 60 basins, each about ten meters deep, the «chambers» are separated by a maze of thriving coral. Underground, exceptionally large and valuable stores of phosphate have been discovered.
Mataiva’s other treasures are its primary forests that have never been significantly changed by human contact. This precious natural area houses fauna as exceptional as its flora including endemic birds, tropical fish and much more. The natural beauty of the atoll has seduced many a visitor and the surrounding coral offers outrageous diving and snorkeling.
With the opening of its airport, the tranquility of Mataiva is perfect for tourists who are looking for an authentic and breathtaking getaway.
© Left : P. Bacchet, center : H. Barnaud, Right : I. Bertaux
The Tepoetiriura legend of Mataiva
Mataiva means « nine eyes » and is named for its nine hoa, the shallow channels that link the lagoon to the sea and separate the motu (islets) from each other. But at one time Mataiva was called Tepoetiriura, which means « a pearl that shines like a shooting star. » This beautiful name comes from the legend of the atoll’s birth, passed down by the oral histories of Mataiva.
A giant warrior named Tu was on Huahine. There was one spot on this island that he particularly liked that was as beautiful as the most magnificent pearl. Because of this, Tu wanted to have the place for his kingdom and he decided to take it. Despite the ferocious guards, at nightfall Tu managed to uproot this piece of Huahine and took off with it on his outrigger canoe. He rowed so fast that no one could catch him and he looked like a shooting star streaming across the sky. At daybreak he had to stop. Right where he was, Tu placed his piece of Huahine and this became Mataiva. It’s said that it’s still possible to see today where Mataiva was taken from Huahine. In Huahine’s lagoon you can see a sort of basin that is the exact shape of the atoll of Mataiva !
© P. Bacchet
Phosphate,
Mataiva’s gold
Mataiva’s fertile soil is probably because of its phosphate rich land. Phosphate is an extremely valuable natural resource and this atoll holds over 70 deposits of extractable apatite rock, which is a crude form of phosphate (pure to 70%). The color can vary from blue-green to brown.
This ore that formed in a marine environment several geological periods before our time, is an excellent fertilizer. Scientists discovered the presence of phosphate in Mataiva’s coral reefs by drilling and taking samples from the lagoon.
The quantity of phosphate on the atoll is estimated to be a phenomenal 10 to possibly 15 million tons. Although Mataiva isn’t the only atoll in the South Pacific to hold such deposits (Makatea in French Polynesia, Nauru and Banaba were once rich in phosphate) it is one of the only places left that hasn’t had its stores extracted. A project to begin extraction has of course been discussed by French Polynesian authorities. With the big yields expected, mining would be very lucrative but concerns about conserving the ecosystem have sparked a lively debate. Mining the island would result in undeniable consequences to the plant life, which would in turn affect the fauna that depends on it. Tourism would also be very affected by such an upheaval. The choice and balance between sustainable development and the preservation of the environment versus economic development is tricky at best.
© Left: H. Barnaud, Right : I. Bertaux - Tahiti Communication
Mataiva’s primary forests,
a perfect habitat for rare birds
Mataiva atoll holds wonderfully thriving primary forests that are so well preserved that they have sparked much interest with international botanists. The forests are called primary because their fragile balance hasn’t been modified by humans. By exploring the forested lands of Poea to the northeast of the atoll or those of Hitirari at the southwest, visitors will discover a very unusual landscape that is tangled with bird’s nest ferns (Aslenium nidus), Tamanu (Calophyllum inophyllum, called Kamani in Hawaii), Puatea (Pisonia grandis) which can grow up to 30 meters (98 feet), Tafano (Guettarda speciosa, beach gardenia in English) a little tree with exceptionally hard wood, Fara (Pandanus tectorius, pandanus in English), Tahinu (Argusia argentea, octopus bush in English), Purau (Hibiscus taliaceus, sea hibiscus in English) and Tou (Cordia subcordata). With all this abounding flora, the forests are like a cliché of a wild paradise brought to life.
Because they aren’t tainted by human construction or disturbances, these primary forests are fascinating observation points to see numerous terrestrial and sea birds.
© P. Bacchet
Unique birds
These few natural spaces that have been spared from deforestation for coconut plantations are the perfect habitat for numerous bird species that are, for the most part, threatened elsewhere. The Tuamotu reed-warbler (Arcocephalus atyphus) particularly likes to nest in the shady Tournefortia, beach gardenia and the wooded zones of pandanus. This protected species is a little bit timid. With grey-beige and yellow-brown plumage the bird is about 15 centimeters (6 inches) long and is found only in French Polynesia (meaning it’s endemic). Primarily an insectivore, the reed-warbler sometimes eats snails and, more rarely, lizards. Its melodic and varied song is a boon to ornithologists who observe the birds patiently on the atoll and these calls help them find where the birds are on Mataiva. Sixteen specimens were captured by the ornithologist Jean-Claude Thibault in 2006.
The most common species of sea birds found on the atoll are the brown noddy (Anous stolidus) and the red-footed booby (Sula sula), both of which can be seen in the atoll’s forests (mostly at Pua’atea-Pisonia) and on the motu of Papiro (for red-footed boobies), Tou, Tiamano and Teakou. Between the months of September and April Bristle-thighed Curlew (Numenius tahitiensis) can be seen that have flown from Alaska to spend winter on the atoll. This dappled-brown wader with large, slightly blue feet, is about 44 centimeters long (17 inches) and is a protected species. The bird’s long black and pink beak allows it to pick in the sand to find the crustaceans that make up most of its diet.
© H. Barnaud except center: P. Bacchet
Text : Tahiti Communication
Translation : Celeste Brash
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